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Innovative Medicines & Omics Fermentation in dermatology

dried at a high temperature to produce HA powder. HA In addition to citric acid, glycolic acid is another AHA
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serves several functions based on its molecular weight. known in the skincare industry. Fermentation of glycolic
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High-molecular HA (about 1 MDa) increases the viscosity acid breaks it down into smaller molecules, allowing for
and stability of the product film that forms on the skin, easier absorption into the skin. This helps with exfoliation,
hence decreasing transepidermal water loss and improving resulting in a smoother and more radiant complexion.
the hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis. At a Glycolic acid improves skin hydration and barrier
lower molecular weight (about 250 kDa), HA interacts function by boosting collagen production, which helps to
with skin cells and extracellular components, providing reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving
deeper hydration and wrinkle reduction. This enables HA the skin a more youthful and firmer appearance. It can
to function as a signal molecule that triggers the synthesis also introduce beneficial antioxidants that protect the skin
of natural HA. Reports have suggested that more potent from environmental stressors and free radical damage.
anti-aging effects may arise from molecules with smaller Currently, glycolic acid is primarily produced using
molecular weights. 22 petrochemical resources, which involves the usage of
hazardous formaldehyde. Alternatively, a biotechnological
Another molecule that is becoming increasingly production pathway offering a sustainable approach
important is kojic acid, which primarily acts as a skin- is more desirable. Producing glycolic acid from
lightening agent. It is synthesized by strains from the lignocellulosic biomass feedstocks would be more
genera Aspergillus and Penicillium. Kojic acid improves economically and environmentally viable. Numerous
the ability of skin care products to shield users from UV bacteria naturally produce glycolic acid by hydrolyzing
rays and reduces skin hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the glycolonitrile and oxidizing ethylene glycol. However,
production of tyrosinase. According to the Global Industry developing a pathway that allows for the flexible usage of
Analysts, there is a high demand for whitening creams alternative, more abundant carbon sources under standard
in the Middle East, Asia, and Africa. Moreover, given its bioprocessing conditions would be more advantageous, as
economic potential, kojic acid consistently draws attention current production pathways depend on ethylene glycol
for its environmentally friendly synthesis, with research or glycolonitrile, and specific environmental conditions.
continually being conducted to enhance its production. 23 One less-explored but promising production pathway is
Citric acid is a member of the class of molecules the glyoxylate cycle, where C2 molecules, such as ethanol
known as alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) and functions are naturally converted into glyoxylate, which can be
as an exfoliating agent in skin care products. AHAs further converted into glycolic acid through metabolic
can eliminate dead skin cells from the skin’s outermost engineering. Other than that, several methods have been
layer, a process known as exfoliation, leaving the skin proposed for modifying Escherichia coli’s glyoxylate cycle
radiant and youthful. Over the past few years, there has to enhance glycolic acid production. 26
been a steady increase in demand for cosmetic products Ascorbic acid, also known as Vitamin C, is a water-
containing AHAs, particularly in the Western European soluble essential vitamin and functions as a crucial
and Asian markets. In 1916, research conducted by James cofactor for several enzymatic reactions in the body. 27,28
Currie enabled the profitable industrial synthesis of citric The antioxidative ability of ascorbic acid to scavenge
acid from Aspergillus niger using molasses and sucrose as free radicals and minimize oxidative stress has led to its
primary carbon sources. He discovered that several strains growing use in cosmetic products. Ascorbic acid is
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of A. niger can produce significant amounts of citric acid. produced through a fermentation process that frequently
The two most important findings were: (i) citric acid uses several microorganisms. In the first stage of the
production could succeed at a pH of approximately 2.5 – fermentation, the bacterium Gluconobacter oxydans
3.5, which inhibited the formation of gluconic and oxalic converts D-Sorbitol into L-Sorbose. In the next stage, a
acid, and (ii) citric acid production increased as sugar mixed culture of Ketogulonicigenium vulgare and Bacillus
content rose. In addition, since the 1960s, scientists have species converts L-sorbose into 2-keto-L-gulonic acid,
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made significant efforts to introduce Yarrowia lipolytica a pre-cursor of ascorbic acid. Together, these microbes
yeast as an alternative to conventional fungal technology. perform a two-step fermentation process that effectively
Y. lipolytica can produce citric acid using a variety of produces ascorbic acid. 30
carbon sources. Furthermore, Y. lipolytica possesses
several desirable properties, such as withstanding lower 2.3. Production of vitamins through fermentation
pH levels, making it more economical and tolerant to high for skin care
quantities of carbon sources and contaminants found in Fermented vitamins are revolutionizing the cosmetics
substrates. 25 market with their potent skin benefits and enhanced

Volume 2 Issue 1 (2025) 23 doi: 10.36922/imo.5020