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Innovative Medicines & Omics Fermentation in dermatology
bioavailability. The fermentation process, driven by of glycosaminoglycans. In addition, Vitamin A, as an
beneficial microbes, transforms the vitamins into more antioxidant, helps to reduce DNA damage from free
stable and bioactive forms that are particularly effective radicals, thereby preventing neoplastic transformation
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in skincare products. During fermentation, complex and carcinogenesis. In terms of production, Vitamin A
vitamin structures are broken down, enhancing the or β-carotene is produced by the yeast, Y. lipolytica. The
skin’s ability to absorb and utilize the nutrients. The use production of β-carotene is increased by overexpressing
of fermented vitamins in cosmetics includes two key heterologous carotene synthase in Y. lipolytica. After
benefits: (i) improved absorption and (ii) increased screening for the most effective promoter, the modified
effectiveness. Moreover, fermented vitamins exhibit strain achieved a fermentation yield of 1.5 g/L. By
stronger antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties employing fed-batch fermentation and perfectly adjusting
compared to their non-fermented counterparts, making the fermentation conditions, the production titer of
them valuable in treating various skin issues, such as aging β-carotene was further increased to 6.5 g/L and 90 mg/g
and acne. Research on fermented vitamins in cosmetics dry cell weight. 33
can result in novel formulations with improved advantages Vitamin E, including tocopherols and tocotrienols, is a
for skin health, opening doors to more sustainable and group of lipid-soluble antioxidants. Vitamin E serves as the
effective beauty products. 19 primary defense against lipid peroxidation by inhibiting
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin PP, Vitamin B3, the synthesis of ROS molecules, thereby preserving the
or nicotinamide, is a component of coenzymes involved in integrity of cell membranes. The antioxidant activity of
hydrogen transfer and has several positive effects on the Vitamin E can be significantly enhanced by ascorbic acid,
skin. The topical application of niacinamide helps to cure Vitamin B3, selenium, glutathione, and other biological
atopic dermatitis by stabilizing the skin barrier, reducing factors. The potent antioxidant properties of Vitamin
transepidermal water loss, and promoting the synthesis E make it an ideal compound for avoiding skin aging,
of ceramides and proteins such as filaggrin, keratin, and treating several skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis,
involucrin. It has been observed that topical treatment and melasma, and preventing scar formation. Topical
with niacinamide lowered transepidermal water loss in dry application of Vitamin E is generally safe, with minimal
skin and improved the synthesis of cholesterol, free fatty reported side effects and a low frequency of minor irritations.
acids, and ceramide – the main pathogenic components Reports have shown that formulations containing 0.2%
responsible for barrier failure in atopic dermatitis. The α-tocopherol effectively increased Vitamin E levels in the
anti-inflammatory properties of niacinamide and its stratum corneum (SC) and decreased lipid peroxidation in
ability to reduce the production of several inflammatory vivo, thereby protecting the skin from the damaging effects
cytokines (interleukin [IL]-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor of photoaging and oxidative stress. 34,35 Moreover, it has been
necrosis factor), make it a promising treatment for acne, recently discovered that the bacterium Euglena gracilis is
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rosacea, and other inflammatory skin diseases. As for the highly effective in creating high-value compounds, such as
production of niacinamide, reports have demonstrated Vitamin E. It is characterized by rapid growth and a high
that Vitamin B3 can be produced using recombinant E. coli production of α-tocopherol, which accounts for over 97%
expressing Rhodococcus rhodochrous nitrile hydratase. 32 of the total tocopherol content in the organism.
Another vitamin of interest in skin care applications In addition to the vitamins mentioned, many other
is Vitamin A, also known as retinoid or β-carotene. vitamins are produced through microbial fermentation
Vitamin A can be derived from several sources, such as and exert beneficial effects on the skin. A summary of these
animal products (meat, dairy products, and fish), colored vitamins and their respective functions on skin health is
fruits and vegetables (β-carotenoid or provitamin A), tabulated in Table 1. 36
as well as retinol and retinyl ester. In addition to retinol
and its natural counterparts, the retinoid family includes 2.4. Production of amino acids through
numerous synthetic compounds. Retinoids interact with fermentation for skin care
several cellular and nucleic acid receptors, such as the Fermented amino acids are revolutionizing the fields
nuclear retinoic acid receptor family, the cellular retinol- of nutrition and skincare. Fermentation increases the
binding protein, and the cellular retinoic acid-binding bioavailability and efficacy of amino acids, allowing better
protein types I and II. The mechanism of action of retinoids absorption by the body than their synthetic counterparts,
involves regulating cellular differentiation, which enhances thereby improving overall skin health and general
photoaging by promoting epidermal proliferation, leading wellness. Fermented amino acids help strengthen the
to epidermal thickening, and stimulating the deposition skin’s protective barrier, enhance moisture retention, and
Volume 2 Issue 1 (2025) 24 doi: 10.36922/imo.5020

