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Innovative Medicines & Omics                                                 Fermentation in dermatology



            bioavailability. The fermentation process, driven by   of glycosaminoglycans. In addition, Vitamin A, as an
            beneficial microbes, transforms the vitamins into more   antioxidant, helps to reduce DNA damage from free
            stable and bioactive forms that are particularly effective   radicals, thereby preventing neoplastic transformation
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            in skincare products. During fermentation, complex   and carcinogenesis.  In terms of production, Vitamin A
            vitamin structures are broken down, enhancing the   or β-carotene is produced by the yeast, Y. lipolytica. The
            skin’s ability to absorb and utilize the nutrients. The use   production of  β-carotene is increased by overexpressing
            of fermented vitamins in cosmetics includes two key   heterologous carotene synthase in  Y. lipolytica. After
            benefits: (i) improved absorption and (ii) increased   screening for the most effective promoter, the modified
            effectiveness. Moreover, fermented vitamins exhibit   strain  achieved a  fermentation  yield  of 1.5  g/L.  By
            stronger antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties   employing fed-batch fermentation and perfectly adjusting
            compared to their non-fermented counterparts, making   the fermentation conditions, the production titer of
            them valuable in treating various skin issues, such as aging   β-carotene was further increased to 6.5 g/L and 90 mg/g
            and acne. Research on fermented vitamins in cosmetics   dry cell weight. 33
            can result in novel formulations with improved advantages   Vitamin E, including tocopherols and tocotrienols, is a
            for skin health, opening doors to more sustainable and   group of lipid-soluble antioxidants. Vitamin E serves as the
            effective beauty products. 19                      primary  defense  against lipid peroxidation  by inhibiting
              Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin PP, Vitamin B3,   the synthesis of ROS molecules, thereby preserving the
            or nicotinamide, is a component of coenzymes involved in   integrity of cell membranes. The antioxidant activity of
            hydrogen transfer and has several positive effects on the   Vitamin E can be significantly enhanced by ascorbic acid,
            skin. The topical application of niacinamide helps to cure   Vitamin B3, selenium, glutathione, and other biological
            atopic dermatitis by stabilizing the skin barrier, reducing   factors. The potent antioxidant properties of Vitamin
            transepidermal  water loss, and promoting the  synthesis   E make it an ideal compound for avoiding skin aging,
            of ceramides and proteins such as filaggrin, keratin, and   treating several skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis,
            involucrin. It has been observed that topical treatment   and melasma, and preventing scar formation. Topical
            with niacinamide lowered transepidermal water loss in dry   application of Vitamin E is generally safe, with minimal
            skin and improved the synthesis of cholesterol, free fatty   reported side effects and a low frequency of minor irritations.
            acids, and ceramide – the main pathogenic components   Reports have shown that formulations containing 0.2%
            responsible for barrier failure in atopic dermatitis. The   α-tocopherol effectively increased Vitamin E levels in the
            anti-inflammatory properties of niacinamide and its   stratum corneum (SC) and decreased lipid peroxidation in
            ability to reduce the production of several inflammatory   vivo, thereby protecting the skin from the damaging effects
            cytokines (interleukin [IL]-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor   of photoaging and oxidative stress. 34,35  Moreover, it has been
            necrosis factor), make it a promising treatment for acne,   recently discovered that the bacterium Euglena gracilis is
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            rosacea, and other inflammatory skin diseases.  As for the   highly effective in creating high-value compounds, such as
            production of niacinamide, reports have demonstrated   Vitamin E. It is characterized by rapid growth and a high
            that Vitamin B3 can be produced using recombinant E. coli   production of α-tocopherol, which accounts for over 97%
            expressing Rhodococcus rhodochrous nitrile hydratase. 32  of the total tocopherol content in the organism.
              Another  vitamin  of  interest  in  skin  care  applications   In addition to the vitamins mentioned, many other
            is Vitamin A, also known as retinoid or  β-carotene.   vitamins are produced through microbial fermentation
            Vitamin A can be derived from several sources, such as   and exert beneficial effects on the skin. A summary of these
            animal products (meat, dairy products, and fish), colored   vitamins and their respective functions on skin health is
            fruits and vegetables (β-carotenoid or provitamin A),   tabulated in Table 1. 36
            as well as retinol and retinyl ester. In addition to retinol
            and its natural counterparts, the retinoid family includes   2.4. Production of amino acids through
            numerous synthetic compounds. Retinoids interact with   fermentation for skin care
            several cellular and nucleic acid receptors, such as the   Fermented amino acids are revolutionizing the fields
            nuclear retinoic acid receptor family, the cellular retinol-  of nutrition and skincare. Fermentation increases  the
            binding protein, and the cellular retinoic acid-binding   bioavailability and efficacy of amino acids, allowing better
            protein types I and II. The mechanism of action of retinoids   absorption by the body than their synthetic counterparts,
            involves regulating cellular differentiation, which enhances   thereby improving overall skin health and general
            photoaging by promoting epidermal proliferation, leading   wellness. Fermented amino acids help strengthen the
            to epidermal thickening, and stimulating the deposition   skin’s protective barrier, enhance moisture retention, and


            Volume 2 Issue 1 (2025)                         24                               doi: 10.36922/imo.5020
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